The Only Watch Styles Worth Investing In According to an Expert

According to experts, editors, and shopping enthusiasts, this is the year of the timepiece. Watches have always been highly coveted accessories associated with wealth and opulence, and though that isn’t changing, the watch space definitely is. Women are entering this historically male-dominated industry and providing their expert POVs as collectors and investors, and we’re taking notes. As quiet luxury continues its reign across generations, more and more people are seeking a watch that will stand the test of time. So we tapped our favorite watch expert, Malaika Crawford, to help us out. Crawford is a style editor at Hodinkee—a leading watch platform—and a collector of the most gorgeous and intricate watches. If anyone knows what it takes to invest in and curate a solid watch collection, it’s her, and a quick scroll through her social media reveals that Audemars Piguet is a mainstay brand among her timepieces.

For over a century, Audemars Piguet has handcrafted Swiss luxury watches, and the Royal Oak—the brand’s on-trend yet timeless style—is topping everyone’s wish list in 2024. Before we get too carried away with the star players, let’s dial it back and hear Crawford’s advice on finding the perfect investment watch.

What do you look for when deciding to add a new piece to your watch collection?

Personal style and instinct. There’s a lot more to choosing a timepiece than there is to, say, picking out a handbag—though the two do have similarities. Some collectors save up for years to own the perfect watch, the same way a purse lover might pursue an Hermès Birkin. Instinct trumps all! Styling is, by nature, very personal, as is your choice of watch. One small accessory can change an entire outfit. Wear it enough and it can become an extension of you; wear it on a random Tuesday and play the part of the character it belongs to. Don’t be misguided by what’s “hot” right now. Think of this as an investment in yourself, not just your watch. A watch can make you feel more confident, more put-together, more ready to fight the good fight. So choose a watch that makes you feel those feelings the minute you try it on. Trust me—you’ll just know.

Do you have any shopping advice for our readers? What are some green flags to look out for?

Do your research before shopping, but you absolutely do not need to read every piece of information out there. Don’t let the technical side of watchmaking put you off. Embrace it if you so choose, or learn to respect it, but ultimately, you’re buying your watch based on how it looks and how it makes you feel. So I say go with your gut. If you’re investing money into a serious timepiece, it’s got to be something you are happy to wear all the time. Try everything on. Try things on in the boutique; try things on at auction previews. (These are open to the public, FYI.) Get a sense of what size, metal, and style work for you. Trust me when I say you know nothing until you see it in the metal. (That’s watch-nerd slang for “in real life.”)

You’re a seasoned shopper in the watch department, what do you love about Audemars Piguet’s selection of watches? What makes the brand stand out?

AP is a brand I’ve followed closely since the start of my watch career. While many Swiss brands often seem themselves as custodians of their deep rooted heritage and tradition, AP respects its foundational history but understands how to operate as a brand in 2024. Audemars Piguet pushes the history of the brand with its focus on open work dials and perpetual calendars but it’s not afraid to experiment, keeping an ear to the ground. The Royal Oak is a historically important and globally recognized design. Its graphic octagonal shape has been imprinted onto the brains of watch nerds everywhere. But beyond the enthusiasts, the design still registers as classic and timeless in the way a Chanel flap bag would or a Burberry trench would. Elegant design you can wear all the way up to your (forgive my morbidness) deathbed. Can’t beat a classic.

Why is craftsmanship so important to you?

I respect the idea of buying things you will keep for years and years. The key sentiment to take away here is that we should all be dressing for pleasure. Why should wearing a watch be so serious? You can respect the craft of watchmaking and still wear a watch for pleasure and ultimately to look good. It’s all very tactile and satisfying [knowing that] so much craft, historical expertise, and time has gone into the making of an object that you’ll wear on your person every day.

We’re seeing a shift in the narrative surrounding women in the watch space. What are some design details that tend to catch your eye?

I love gem-setting on sports watches specifically. Putting gems on a bezel doesn’t make something a jewelry watch—in fact, it helps drive home the idea that jewelry watches are no longer just for women. It’s a push towards fluidity.

What are your thoughts on the intricate watch dials we’re seeing in 2024?

Wearing an Openwork RO (Royal Oak) means you’ve probably already got some level of watch-collecting experience behind you. That, or you know exactly what you’re doing. Don’t underestimate an openwork dial and how cool it can look when done right. This isn’t just for the upper echelons of watch fanatics. Do not be intimidated—use this as a chance to embrace the unknown intricacies of a mechanical watch. It’s a miniature mechanical marvel! Wear it loose with a more casual outfit. Make the watch the center of attention (when in a safe setting). It deserves to be.