The Eternal It Bags: 14 Luxury Handbags That Are Certified Icons

By nature, ready-to-wear trends come and go with the seasonal shifts, but handbags are a different story altogether. These exceptional accessories are the difference between a good outfit and a great one, and given their ability to transcend seasons and even decades, a designer handbag is one of the smartest (and most stylish) investments you can make. Choose the right bag and not only will you up the style factor of your wardrobe, but often their value increases over time; a testament to the quality, craftspersonship and keen eye for design that sets a designer bag apart from any other.

“Unlike conventional purchases, a luxury bag is a timeless accessory, often retaining or appreciating over time. Bags are also the most versatile item in a wardrobe and if looked after correctly, they won’t look ‘worn’ compared to shoes or jewellery,” notes Hanushka Toni, founder of luxury preloved boutique Sellier. “Consumers tend to be drawn to luxury bags from the likes of Hermès, Chanel and Goyard because of the exclusivity of owning one. These bags derive their value from the scarcity of supply coupled with incredible demand in the resale market, and at Sellier, we’ve seen demand for bags from these brands increase by 20% month on month. These pieces will never be produced in the exact same way again, and with that comes a certain satisfaction in knowing that you have something that will no longer be made and is one of only a few in existence.”

And what does true “luxury” look like in 2024? Well, much the same as it did 50 or 60 years ago, as despite the aesthetic shift in the ready-to-wear market, the top-performing bags are still those whose heritage may go back decades, but which look as fresh today as when they were first released. As consumers increasingly search for pieces that work with what they already own, the rise in popularity of the quiet-luxury movement in particular suggests a change in the way we shop now, opting for “anti-trend” pieces over buzzy hashtags.

In the past 12 months alone fashion has undergone a Y2K renaissance, found an affinity for balletcore and the coquette, and slimmed down then supersized our denim. But the important undercurrent that runs through each of the core luxury trends for 2024 is how your purchase speaks to your personal style. With so many new “It” designs cropping up each season, it can be difficult to determine which pieces have true staying power, so our advice is to start with the classics. From Parisian haute couture houses to agenda-setting London-based brands, below is our definitive guide to the designer bags that are so legendary that they deserve true icon status. Consider these wise investments for the years (if not decades) ahead.

THE HÉRMES BIRKIN

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY SELLIER)

Any bag with a waiting list as famous as the icon it’s named after must top the list as one of the most influential on the market. The Hérmes Birkin bag is a globally recognised symbol of status, and in the 40 years since its first release, it has been spotted on the arms of A-listers, royalty and fashion insiders, reaffirming it as the It bag for those in the know. Granted, these are some of the most expensive designer bags of all time (the Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 35 with 18-carat white gold and diamond hardware went for a colossal £236,750 in 2018), but the preloved market has seen such a boost in the last few years that you can expect a Birkin bag to retain around 130% of its retail value at resale.

Hermès

Birkin Bag 30cm in Bleu Nuit Togo Leather

Hermès

Birkin Bag 30cm Sellier in Nata Epsom Leather

Hermès

Birkin Bag 35cm in Gold Togo Leather

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Hermès

Constance III Mini 18cm in Sesame Leather

Hermès Pre-Owned

2015 Pre-Owned Kelly Selliere 32 Handbag

Hermès

Kelly Elan Bag in Gold Madame Leather

THE CHANEL FLAP BAG

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY SELLIER)

Ask anyone to imagine the archetypal designer bag, and the chances are the first image to spring to mind is the Chanel Flap Bag. Arguably the first bag to become famous in its own right, few have garnered quite the same interest as Chanel’s refined quilted style; instantly recognisable worldwide for its chain strap and plush profile. Although the bag has changed a lot since its original 1929 design (the prototype was crafted from a jersey fabric akin to a soldier’s weatherproof knapsack), it is the 2.55 iteration reimagined by the late Coco Chanel in 1955 that changed the handbag for the modern woman and set the tone for the styles we still covet today.

Chanel

Black Jumbo Classic Double Flap Bag

Chanel

Washed Denim & Gold-Tone Metal Flap Bag

Chanel

White Jumbo Classic Double Flap Bag

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Chanel

Small Flap Bag in Metallic Lambskin

Chanel

Camera Bag in Lambskin

THE CELINE TRIOMPHE

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY CELINE)

It may have only been introduced in 2018, but don’t underestimate the longevity of Celine’s Triomphe bag. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s archives, Hedi Slimane’s sleek, glossy shoulder bag pays homage to the founder and history of the house by making a talking point of the unmistakable double-C motif and boxy silhouette. With fans like Kaia Gerber, Rihanna, Angelina Jolie, Jessica Alba and Scarlett Johansson, it’s clear that this street style star has what it takes to be a bag for the ages. Handbag collectors will be drawn to its variety; as there are calfskin, canvas and crocodile iterations, as well as an array of colours (on last count there are at least 32, spanning bubblegum pink to deep forest green).

Celine

Classique Triomphe Bag in Shiny Calfskin Black

Celine

Classique Triomphe Bag in Shiny Calfskin Bronze

Celine

Classique Triomphe Bag in Shiny Calfskin

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Celine

Medium Victoire Bag Calfskin

Celine

Heloise Cuir Triomphe Bag

Celine

Small Cabas in Triomphe Canvas and Calfskin Tan

THE DIOR LADY

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY DIOR)

If the instantly recognisable silhouette isn’t the first thing you notice about any Dior bag, the signature hardware will be. From the prim and proper top handles to the deceptively roomy interior, the Lady is an emblem of Dior’s couture heritage and carefully considered elegance, designed with royalty in mind. For the Dior Cruise 2024 show, a new Lady was presented in a glossy patent leather—the latest addition to a roster that already includes the equally legendary Saddle Bag and Book Tote, creating an A-list lineup of some of the most famous bags in fashion history.