The Eternal It Bags: 14 Luxury Handbags That Are Certified Icons

By nature, ready-to-wear trends come and go with the seasonal shifts, but handbags are a different story altogether. These exceptional accessories are the difference between a good outfit and a great one, and given their ability to transcend seasons and even decades, a designer handbag is one of the smartest (and most stylish) investments you can make. Choose the right bag and not only will you up the style factor of your wardrobe, but often their value increases over time; a testament to the quality, craftspersonship and keen eye for design that sets a designer bag apart from any other. 

“Unlike conventional purchases, a luxury bag is a timeless accessory, often retaining or appreciating over time. Bags are also the most versatile item in a wardrobe and if looked after correctly, they won’t look ‘worn’ compared to shoes or jewellery,” notes Hanushka Toni, founder of luxury preloved boutique Sellier. “Consumers tend to be drawn to luxury bags from the likes of Hermès, Chanel and Goyard because of the exclusivity of owning one. These bags derive their value from the scarcity of supply coupled with incredible demand in the resale market, and at Sellier, we’ve seen demand for bags from these brands increase by 20% month on month. These pieces will never be produced in the exact same way again, and with that comes a certain satisfaction in knowing that you have something that will no longer be made and is one of only a few in existence.”

And what does true “luxury” look like in 2024? Well, much the same as it did 50 or 60 years ago, as despite the aesthetic shift in the ready-to-wear market, the top-performing bags are still those whose heritage may go back decades, but which look as fresh today as when they were first released. As consumers increasingly search for pieces that work with what they already own, the rise in popularity of the quiet-luxury movement in particular suggests a change in the way we shop now, opting for “anti-trend” pieces over buzzy hashtags. 

In the past 12 months alone fashion has undergone a Y2K renaissance, found an affinity for balletcore and the coquette, and slimmed down then supersized our denim. But the important undercurrent that runs through each of the core luxury trends for 2024 is how your purchase speaks to your personal style. With so many new “It” designs cropping up each season, it can be difficult to determine which pieces have true staying power, so our advice is to start with the classics. From Parisian haute couture houses to agenda-setting London-based brands, below is our definitive guide to the designer bags that are so legendary that they deserve true icon status. Consider these wise investments for the years (if not decades) ahead.

THE HÉRMES BIRKIN

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY SELLIER)

Any bag with a waiting list as famous as the icon it’s named after must top the list as one of the most influential on the market. The Hérmes Birkin bag is a globally recognised symbol of status, and in the 40 years since its first release, it has been spotted on the arms of A-listers, royalty and fashion insiders, reaffirming it as the It bag for those in the know. Granted, these are some of the most expensive designer bags of all time (the Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 35 with 18-carat white gold and diamond hardware went for a colossal £236,750 in 2018), but the preloved market has seen such a boost in the last few years that you can expect a Birkin bag to retain around 130% of its retail value at resale.

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THE CHANEL FLAP BAG

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY SELLIER)

Ask anyone to imagine the archetypal designer bag, and the chances are the first image to spring to mind is the Chanel Flap Bag. Arguably the first bag to become famous in its own right, few have garnered quite the same interest as Chanel’s refined quilted style; instantly recognisable worldwide for its chain strap and plush profile. Although the bag has changed a lot since its original 1929 design (the prototype was crafted from a jersey fabric akin to a soldier’s weatherproof knapsack), it is the 2.55 iteration reimagined by the late Coco Chanel in 1955 that changed the handbag for the modern woman and set the tone for the styles we still covet today.

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THE CELINE TRIOMPHE

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY CELINE)

It may have only been introduced in 2018, but don’t underestimate the longevity of Celine’s Triomphe bag. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s archives, Hedi Slimane’s sleek, glossy shoulder bag pays homage to the founder and history of the house by making a talking point of the unmistakable double-C motif and boxy silhouette. With fans like Kaia Gerber, Rihanna, Angelina Jolie, Jessica Alba and Scarlett Johansson, it’s clear that this street style star has what it takes to be a bag for the ages. Handbag collectors will be drawn to its variety; as there are calfskin, canvas and crocodile iterations, as well as an array of colours (on last count there are at least 32, spanning bubblegum pink to deep forest green).

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THE DIOR LADY

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY DIOR)

If the instantly recognisable silhouette isn’t the first thing you notice about any Dior bag, the signature hardware will be. From the prim and proper top handles to the deceptively roomy interior, the Lady is an emblem of Dior’s couture heritage and carefully considered elegance, designed with royalty in mind. For the Dior Cruise 2024 show, a new Lady was presented in a glossy patent leather—the latest addition to a roster that already includes the equally legendary Saddle Bag and Book Tote, creating an A-list lineup of some of the most famous bags in fashion history. 

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THE PRADA GALLERIA

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY PRADA)

Prada‘s ability to design, rework and reissue the archival pieces that we know and love keeps the brand fresh and relevant for the next generation, and there is no better example of this than the Galleria. Although it was first released in 2007, you can trace its history back to 1913, as it is named after the location of the very first Prada boutique and employs the same construction techniques as first devised by Mario Prada himself, meaning that by choosing this bag, you’re carrying 110 years of Italian design. Whilst seasonal trends switch back and forth between micro bags and supersized totes, the Galleria stands apart as the anti-trend bag that does it all (it’s available in small, medium and large sizes), and should you be looking for something extra special, you have the crystal embellished, satin, patent and colour-block finishes to choose from too. See, I meant it when I said this bag does it all. 

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THE GUCCI JACKIE 

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY GUCCI)

Thanks to the loyal collection of one Jackie Kennedy Onassis, the Gucci Jackie (known formally as “the Constance”) would become one of the most photographed bags of all time, a legacy that still holds true 60 years later. Given just how long the Jackie has been on the market, it is remarkable how few tweaks have been required to keep it looking as modern as it still does. A slight adjustment to the clasp here, a curve of the handle there; but ultimately, it’s impossible to improve on perfection, and whether it is reissued in new bold colours, prints or sizes, the Jackie is the still the same sleek hobo that oozes laidback luxe and retro appeal. This is an accessory for the effortlessly elegant who are seen with a designer bag casually hanging from their arm—never squirrelled away in a dust bag,

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THE FENDI BAGUETTE

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY FENDI)

After Carrie Bradshaw uttered the immortal words “It’s not a bag, it’s a baguette,” the Fendi baguette was catapulted into new realms of superstardom, making the bag rather than the wearer the true celebrity. For the first time we were offered a bag that would tuck perfectly under our arms as we dashed around the city, or that sits neatly on a tabletop for dinner and drinks. After all, the turn-of-the-millennium woman could have it all and do it all, and needed a bag that could keep up. The Fendi baguette was the answer. This pinnacle of pop culture would be the turning point of fashion meets functionality; as we put down our briefcases and picked up shoulder bags, the baguette set the tone for what we would expect from every It bag going forward: head-turning appeal, exclusivity and the just the right amount of logomania to make it instantly recognisable. Here’s to another 25 years. 

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THE BOTTEGA VENETA ANDIAMO

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It may be one of the newer bags on this list, but don’t let that fool you—in the year since its release the Bottega Andiamo has proven that it has what it takes to go the distance. This no-nonsense tote is not an ultra-micro mini or an unyielding sack, there are no superfluous bells and whistles and it doesn’t rely on gimmicks. Instead, the beauty in its design is what creative director Matthieu Blazy referred to as a “vision for elevated everyday living,” it gets the job done and looks exceptionally good doing it. The stripped-back approach is what makes Bottega’s accessories quite so covetable, with the focus on the carefully woven intrecciato technique and the impossibly soft calf leather. Those with an eye for craftspersonship and functionality should start here, as this investment will last a lifetime. 

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THE FERRAGAMO HUG BAG

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY FERRAGAMO)

That bag you’ve seen everywhere over the past few months? That’s the Ferragamo Hug, and it’s proving to be a new cult classic in the making. All of the hallmarks are there: the elegant shape, the minimalist finish, the huge variety of colours and styles you can choose from; and we’re just happy to see a trending bag that is as practical as it is polished. This one will appeal to those drawn to clean lines and sculptural shapes with an air of luxury so quiet it practically whispers. We wait with bated breath to see what Ferragamo creative director Maximilian Davis will do next. 

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THE LOEWE PUZZLE BAG

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY COCOON CLUB)

Loewe’s roster of bags reads like a who’s who of contemporary icons. The basket bags, the Hammocks, the Gate crossbodies, the Flamenco pouches, the puffer Goya bags… if we had to focus on one style in particular though, the Puzzle deserves the spotlight. There are minis, crossbodies and even a collapsable tote, but the OG Puzzle Bag is the perfect style to be worn slung under the arm as your daily go-to. Bravo, Jonathan Anderson; this unassuming geometric shoulder bag has been top of our wish lists for 10 years running, and has paved the way for a less than traditional approach to bag design that still manages to stay true to Loewe’s artisanal background.

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THE GOYARD SAINT LOUIS

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY COCOON CLUB)

If you’ve ever tried to buy a Goyard bag firsthand online you’ll know that it is the only major luxury brand without an e-retailer—a shrewd decision on the brand’s part to keep these iconic pieces as exclusive as possible. If you want membership to this insider club, you have to go to a store. No matter; the luxury experience is why we buy designer bags in the first place, and although you may have seen the recognisable Saint Louis tote pitted against bags of a similar size and shape, this one is in a class of its own. Spacious, lightweight and with a detachable pochette, plenty of care has been given to cater to the high-flying jet-setter who no doubt has the matching wheeled suitcase, trunk and cardholder too. No wonder it is so often imitated but never duplicated.

THE GIVENCHY VOYOU 

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY GIVENCHY)

Although the early noughties belonged to the Antigona and Nightingale bags, the 2020s are reserved for Givenchy’s latest hero, the Voyou. The unstructured and slouchy silhouette speaks to the nature of the bag itself—free-spirited, effortless and of course, achingly cool; this versatile hobo is designed to be slung over the arm as the finishing touch to a “ladylike” but relaxed look, as even the way it sits on a surface reinforces the brand’s recognisable “V” motif. An undoubtedly grittier approach to design compared to the boxy top-handle shapes that came before it, the Voyou is perfectly timed for a generation that wants to toe the line between timeless and timely. With all that distressed leather and fashionable hardware, you can consider this the biker jacket of the accessory world—a cool-kid favourite that never goes out of style. 

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THE LOUIS VUITTON SPEEDY

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY LOUIS VUITTON)

If you’d been on social media last year, you would have inevitably seen the commotion surrounding the impending release of the latest Louis Vuitton Speedy. Whilst Pharrell Williams, creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, might have reinterpreted the bag in paintbox colourways that are already flying off the shelves, there is much to be said about the bag that started the Vuitton-aissance. Speedy by name and speedy by nature, the bag was first released in 1930 for travellers in need of a practical city bag, and whilst we’re still accustomed to seeing Louis Vuitton luggage at every airport, it’s the nifty little Speedy that can be considered a street style staple. After seeing its way through a lifetime of cherry blossoms, graffiti, rainbow colours and polka dot reincarnations, if ever you wanted a bag that could be handed down through generations without losing its impact, it’s this quintessential top-handle with its classic LV monogram. 

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THE ALEXANDER MCQUEEN JEWELLED HOBO

(Image credit: MELISSA SCHRIEK; COURTESY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN)

Think of era-defining accessories that went viral before the term “viral” was even used as it is today, and you’ll keep coming back to Alexander McQueen. The skull scarves! The Armadillo shoes! But no image holds as strong as the Four Ring Box Clutch; the first of its kind to incorporate jewellery into a bag, inspiring a legion of copycats in the process. Fast forward 14 years and the clutch evolved into the Jewelled Flat Pouch, the Jewelled Satchel, and most recently, 2023’s Jewelled Hobo, a “ladylike” shoulder bag toughened up with the knuckle-duster grit that could only come from a London-born brand. Owning this bag not only shows your style credentials, but it’s also a piece of fashion history, as the original four-ring detail was designed by founder Lee McQueen himself before his untimely passing in 2009. These bags will long exist in the annals of British fashion history as a testament to the impact of McQueen alongside the Vivienne Westwood corset and the Mary Quant mini. 

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