Alessandro Michele’s Jubilant Valentino Debut Shushed Quiet Luxury Once and for All

Lovers of maximalist fashion have had an Alessandro Michele–sized hole in their hearts for the past two years. Absent from the runways has been his signature brand of eclectic energy, allowing quiet luxury brands to thrive. But if his debut collection as Valentino’s creative director is any indication, perhaps fashion is ready to leave subtlety in the rearview mirror.

At Paris Fashion Week, Michele deftly combined his unmistakable aesthetic with Valentino’s historic codes. The house is synonymous with the color red, for instance, but Michele didn’t rely on the hue too heavily. By using red sparingly and creatively, the crimson looks he sent down the runway felt all the more significant. Keep reading for my full review.

Red Carpet–Worthy Gowns

Michele is no stranger to the red carpet. His previous designs have shocked and awed at such illustrious events as the Oscars, Grammys, Met Gala, and Cannes Film Festival. So when will we see the first Michele-designed Valentino dress on the red carpet? I’m placing my bets on the upcoming Academy Museum Gala in Los Angeles on October 19. I can’t wait to see who will wear these fanciful creations.

Polka Dots for Morning, Noon, and Night

Michele is mad about polka dots for spring/summer 2025. The newly installed creative director splashed the pattern on a variety of pieces, including an evening gown, a cropped blazer, a skirt set, and a pantsuit. In other words, there’s a polka-dotted look for any time of day.

Accessories With Personality

Michele wants us to have fun with our accessories. Why wear a simple pair of black pumps when you can style them with red lace tights and a studded bow? He’s also advocating for the return of the charm bracelet—a trend I haven’t thought of since I owned a Juicy Couture one circa 2005.

Front-Row Friends

Naturally, plenty of celebrities were on hand to welcome Valentino’s new creative director, including Harry Styles, Elton John, Colman Domingo, Jared Leto, Carla Bruni, Anna Wintour, Yoona Lim, Andrew Garfield, Salma Hayek, Karen Elson, and Florence Welch.